The COS Spring Summer 2018 collection explores organic shapes and natural materials while taking inspiration from the past, present and imagined future as well as artists including Zaha Hadid, Werner Aisslinger, Olafur Eliasson and Daniel Sinsel. The result is a series of understated modern classics, composed in interchangeable modular ways.
The qualities of paper are integral to the collection and are evident from design conception and throughout the work process; from the pattern cutting, to the paper draping and 3D work. This informs new proportions and details which are executed in a clean and precise way. The influences of time are apparent in the artisanal work methods and reinvented modern pieces which have a futuristic tone and quiet drama. Three-piece tailoring is reimagined to incorporate new fabrics, draped and voluminous pieces alter silhouettes and collapse on the body. Classics have been revisited in surprising materials and details are sometimes carefully misplaced.
Designs are brought to life by cottons in a range of forms – textured, coated, crisp, crumpled; whilst knits of various weights are crafted from barely-there silks, chunky paper yarns and starched summer wools. Technical innovations like coated Tyvek are interspersed throughout to reimagine timeless pieces. The composition is completed with a natural, refined colour palette which moves from purest white through to organic papery and wood-inspired tones to summer browns combined with powdery accents of ochre, leaf green, mint, navy, petrol and red clay.
For womenswear we see the concept translate into reworked trench coats with organic soft shoulders, transparent vests, knitted sets with evolved proportions and tailored pieces with unexpected lengths and cuts. Innovative details include three-way fastenings. Layering is key across individual pieces but also in the arrangement of looks. Eclectic elements come together to create considered accessories; the shopper bag is proposed in ivory patent leather, the clutch is elongated with a brushed metal handle, the rectangular leather handbag comes with functional front and back openings and a technical handle. A sneaker is fly knitted, proposing a new wearability and silver jewellery is fluid and organic to create floating forms. Ties are introduced to both men’s and women’s wear adding detail which disappears into the silhouette.
The play on volume and contrasting proportions continues throughout menswear in the composition of boxy jackets paired with fitted trousers, a square-cut shirt, the stiffness of double faced wool trousers and the effortless crossover coat which hovers between a single and a double breast. The traditional bucket hat has been elongated, the quintessential plimsoll reworked with canvas and the lace-up rounded and proposed in black and white.
Childrenswear reflects the season’s inspirations; paper-like qualities are introduced in a tonal palette with a splash of bold colour, such as golden amber. The gathered details add an effortless and playful feel to the garments, whereas tilted pockets are functional additions, designed to store precious bits and bobs.